“This whole thing of trying to break in and establish a sport – it took a very, very strong attitude”
This was one of those movies I randomly came across (on a plane), had never heard of it before and was rewarded with my decision to watch it. It’s a documentary on surfing, and really follows the men who established it as a sport and really lays out the foundations of the modern day surf world. It’s follows a new group of surfers that move to hawaii in the 70’s to follow their dreams of surfing. It depicts their arrival in the land of aloha and surf lifestyle, and how serious these men were about their sport. It’s a foundation story, and being able to get an inside looks at the roots of a sport is fascinating and really rare. It’s a really cool story, and is extremely honest in depicting their struggles in establishing themselves as outsiders to the hawaiians. It sets the scenes with in-depth candid interviews from the surfing legends and locals, really becoming an homage to their passion for the sport. The most memorable moments are the interviews where you can sense the depth of their passion and love for the sport, the bond they feel and their absolute dedication. It’s a great film, really interesting subject matter with an awesome soundtrack (personal favourite is Dreamers by Them Terribles) and awesome surfing scenes.